The Saxon Shoreway
leg 6: Upstreet to Deal 16 miles
29 January 2005 

Mud first

Very frustrating start to the day: left home at 0710 aiming for the 0803 from Victoria, but had to wait 25 mins for a tube at Tottenham Hale. Bloody track problems. So had to get the 0833 instead. But picked up the bus easily at Canterbury and arrived at Upstreet only 15 mins behind schedule. First few hundred yards were over a very muddy field, one of my least favourite terrains. But it didn't last long. Down some steps and I was at Grove Ferry, where you can get a boat trip in the summer.

Boats wintering at Grove Ferry

The path skirted some buildings, then led out into a field before joining up with the Great Stour. So far, the weather was good: there must have been rain in Canterbury as the roads were wet, but here there was blue sky and sun.

Looking over the Great Stour to Sarre

After crossing a couple of fields, the path led along the banks of the Little Stour which is so straight that I presume it's been navigated. Even though I was now ten miles inland from Reculver, I was still only 3 metres above sea level. 

The path on the right hand side

After a mile or so, I arrived at Plucks Gutter (wonderful name), where the Great and Little Stour merge. There were a few fishermen out along the banks, and the path was pretty chewed up, so I slithered along. Also out on the river were some rowers, being bawled at by their coxes.

The bridge at Plucks Gutter

About a mile further on, a row of poplar trees lined the route, and I saw the only person on the path until I got to Sandwich. He was a cross-country runner, and we waved a greeting to each other. I'd been on the move for about an hour and a half, and thought coffee would be a fine idea. I came across a wonderful pole with picnic tray: I guess it's something to do with fishing but it made a perfect stopping spot.

Coffee pole

The shoreway here is fascinating: looking over to north, I could see the windmill at Sarre, which was once on the coast...and here was I, on what had also once been coast. The Stour is still tidal here, and on the other side is the raised dyke called Abbots Wall, named for the Augustinian foundation.

The Stour widens

The Stour gets quite substantial here, and I was keeping an eye out for some saltworks marked on the map. Don't think I managed to spot them - just a very bumpy field. 

Richborough power station and the wind turbine were now coming into view. This was the power station I'd spotted from my lunch place on the ridge last week. 

Raised path and power ahead

The walking here was good, and some birds flew up from the marshland as I walked past. I think they were grouse. Passing one of the styles I saw a sad reminder of four years ago. 

I hope this becomes ancient history

Just before my lunch stop, the sun came out on the far side, and I could see the minster church of the Blessed Virgin Mary and Saint Sexburgha, at Minster gleaming in the sun. The site was founded by Queen Sexburgha in AD 664, but then the Vikings came and trashed it. Much later it was rebuilt, and there was a priory here until the dissolution of the monasteries. It would be nice to see it close up one day.

The spire of the minster in the sun

The path was getting muddy and very hard work, so I decided that once I reached the power station, I'd stop for lunch. It was very quiet, and the only sound was the occasional chunter of trains: the railway lines are built up on embankments; and jets taking off from Manston airport.

Wind turbine looking fine in the sun

It was good to stop: I found a nice fat pipe to sit on and scoffed my hard boiled eggs, tomato sandwiches and Orkney cheese. After finishing the last of the coffee, it was time to move on. I'd planned to get to Sandwich around 1400, and I was still a way off. 

Yuk

The path now got incredibly difficult. It had obviously been shared by tractors and cows, and it was very very slow going in the mud. I tried to find a cleaner way, but there wasn't one. My boots rapidly accumulated what felt like several tons of Kent. And the brambles kept grabbing my legs. Good workout, though. Ahead were some boats moored to the river's edge.

Slip of land between the river and the Ramsgate road

The path was still horrible, but the animal tracks got smaller, and soon I entered a field with the beasts themselves.

Kent sheep...

...with friends

To add to the mud, the path here was on a camber, so I was slowed even more. I began to dream of tarmac. Looking at the map, I saw that Richborough fort was coming up. 

Remains of the roman fort - that bit of masonry sticking up

You can't see much of it from the path, but this is an important place. The Romans called in Rutupiae, and the legions assembled here after the invasion of AD43. Cheeky things. This was once an island, and the entry point to Britain. Once there was a harbour here, but it's long since gone. The map below gives you an idea of what the coast looked like then... and the logic for this whole walk.

Why Thanet is the isle of...

The map also shows a roman amphitheatre, but it's not visible from the path. Another place I'll have to return to. My way led under the A256, where someone's set up home, with plant pots around the path.

House boat

By now, the path had joined a road: oh bliss! Metalled road! For the first time, I understood what a huge breakthrough this kind of surface must have made. It was a short pleasant walk into Sandwich, and I decided not to follow the path round the back of the town (along the site of the old town walls) but head along the road near the river. First stop was to look over at Gallow's Field: where the unfortunate of Sandwich once met their end.

Site of the gibbet

I strolled down Strand Street, past gorgeous timber framed houses. The street was tiny - definitely horse-sized rather than car. Sandwich is one of the ancient Cinque Ports - and is now quite a way from the sea. But by Saxon times this was a thriving port. The French tried to nab the town in the 13th century, but didn't get away with it. They tried again two centuries later, but the town held out. Another couple of centuries and the silting of the river got worse, until it was inland rather than coastal. There's a good history of the town here.

This looked like an old wharf building

A bit further along is the King's Lodging, a beautiful bit of architecture. Reading up afterwards, I learnt that this was the main lodging house for people on pilgrimage to Canterbury. The gate was added for a visit by Henry VIII.

The King's House, dated 1713 but reckoned to be much older

And the gate to the King's House, dated 1534

Rounding the corner at the end of the Strand, there's the sight of Stour again, and the Barbican gate, one of the main entrances to the town long ago. 

The gate as you enter Sandwich

And just to prove that toll roads are nothing new...

2d for an unladen ass

I paused for a while at the bridge, and enjoyed the sunshine. It was getting on for 1500, so I was later than planned, thanks to all that mud. But the sun was out, and I was looking forward to seeing the sea again after 20 miles. Sandwich is another town I'd like to return to.

Winter sun

I walked along the quayside then back to the shoreway and - great joy - a tarmacced path. Lots of dog walkers were out: the only part of the path that had been busy.

Between the kale fields

After a mile I crossed a road into the Royal St George's golf course, a fine links.

Playing a round

There was a real sense of the sea being close, amplified by exciting signs.

Yes!

Of course, there were lots of these signs, and I wondered how long it would be...I was feeling quite tired by now. At last, I reached the road along the sea's edge. The sun was beginning to set, and I paused to look over to Ramsgate, once on the real island of Thanet.

Lone fisherman with Ramsgate in the distance

Even though I was tired, I was so glad I'd carried on. It was grand to be by the sea with the light going and fantastic skies overhead. After a mile I got to Sandwich Bay estate, with another remarkable Tudor building.

Timber frames

Most of the other buildings were truly awful, like Bishops Avenue in London. People who are that rich shouldn't be allowed to build.

A mile on and to my dismay, the concrete path turned to shingle. My feet did not approve.

Worst walking terrain number 2

Up ahead was the day's second golf course: the Royal Cinque Ports course. Lots of people out with their dogs, including a lovely greyhound.

Looking back over the day's walk

I'm still struck by the flatness of the landscape: how I would love to have seen it 2000 years ago. Preferably in a boat. At last I got to the end of the golf course, and the sea wall (concrete, yum!) at Deal. In the distance I could see the end of the pier.

The edge of Deal

A row of houses lined the sea wall as I walked into Deal. It looked like a lovely, elegant town. There were a couple of helpful information boards: Deal doesn't have a bay or a harbour, but it's been busy since ancient times. In the 16th century, there were huts built on the beach, and all the upper town was a mass of taverns and brothels. Out to sea are the dangerous Goodwin Sands: I could see a few of the 20 flashing lights warning of the danger. Another town to visit.

At last I got the pier, and the end (almost) of this leg.

Lights on the pier

I headed inland to the station...only to see a train pulling away. Of course it was the London train. So there was an hour to wait for the next one. I headed back over the carpark to a pub, and settled down with a pint of Stella to thoughtfully rehydrate.

This was a tough leg because of the muddy walking conditions, and taking out stops, I'd done the 16 miles in 6 hours. But it had been a brilliant route, full of history. On the next leg, I'll be along the coast the whole way, and will get a bit above sea level.

on to leg 7